Hidden behind the High Tatras is the Northern Spis region. This area, close to the Polish boarder, is part of the Carpathian arch. In Roman times, it was considered an important strategic position for this far limit of the Empire. The Poprad river runs gracefully through this area and the town lies in a low valley. This river became an important trade route and towns were constructed due to this. There is no exact data to pinpoint the beginning date of Stará Ľubovňa. The town existed as early as the 11th century but some historical scholars claim the town was in operation as early as the year 1000. According to some historians, it is possible that Podolinec, Hniezdne, Lubovna and Lubotin were in existence as early as the Great Moravian period. Two coins were minted by Belo III (1172-1196) and offer possible evidence about the town. In reference to certified data, Stará Ľubovňa is mentioned in an important document of Wenceslas II, King of Bohemia and Voivode of Poland from 1292. This document offers information in reference to privileges the king offered to Henrik, a knight from Podolinec. Lubovna is mentioned in this document as a village. A document from 1292 offers the dependence of Lubovna upon Podolinec, but during the 14th century this would change. In 1308 Nova Lubovna was started and from this point onwards, Lubovna was referred to as Stará Ľubovňa. Historical data shows that Stará Ľubovňa was granted privileges and rights the same which were granted to towns such as Kosice. The year 1412 was an important date in the history of Stará Ľubovňa. During this time, the pledge of 16 towns of the Spis region was offered to the King of Poland. During 1431 to 1433 the Hussites invaded the Spis region and burned down monasteries and entire towns. The town saw many periods of upheaval and social unrest. Due to the towns connections with Poland, there also were many benefits received. Famous Italian architects and scholars came to this town and it expanded rapidly. Services flourished and a large number of guilds were established such as weavers, shoemakers, bootmakers, tailors, butchers and skilled furriers. Trade flourished in the region and weekly and annual markets were founded. Within the realm of Stará Ľubovňa there were other municipalities such as Podsadek, Josephi Villa and Francisci Villa. In modern times, Podsadek has become part of the town of Stará Ľubovňa.
Stará Ľubovňa is a modern town but still excludes charm from past centuries. The combination of cultures and religions gives the town a unique character. The medieval square which is dominated by St. Nicholas Roman Catholic church is exquisite. The square is encircled by buildings which are mainly shops, government offices, restaurants, foreign exchange offices and other businesses. Saint Nicholas church is not to be missed. It is a beautiful edifice which graces the square and was originally begun in the 14th century. Its soft yellow color blends perfectly with the colors of surrounding buildings. It is said, although not confirmed, that this church was built by Nicolaus Comes, the heir of Lubovna at that time. The strongest evidence found in the records is a date of 1280 where the church is mentioned. This date is generally agreed upon by many historians as a date when the church was fully operational. In the 17th century the church was rebuilt and remodeled. It was changed from its original single nave Gothic style to a three-nave style. A tower was added at the western side of the church and is a visual delight. Some of the historical monuments in the church are striking. St. Nicholas’ altar is of the Baroque style from the second half of the 18th century. In the center is an oil painting of Saint Nicholas. Sculptures of Saint Stephen and Saint Lawrence can be found on the side. Sculptures of Saint Augustine and Saint Gregory are found above the arch doorway. The altar is decorated with rich ornamentation. This period saw the rise of the Protestant faith in the Spis regions and much conflict ensued. The church and her members expended great sums to adorn their churches to support Roman Catholic beliefs. A sculptor of Christ upon the door of the tabernacle on the altar is a masterpiece.
Entering the interior of this church, the grandeur of faith is seen. Many of the side altars are works of art being made of wood, yet covered with gold leaf which give them a living feeling. The church interior is of light yellow, white and light gold which reflect the golden hues on the side altars, statues and altar. Not to be overlooked is the hand made tapestries which grace the side altars. Upon close inspection an individual can see the thousands of threads that were needed to complete the tapestry. If an individual moves back the entire tapestry looks as if it were a beautiful oil painting. Another work of art in this church is the Madonna of Lubvovna. This statue, even though centuries old, has realistic eyes and features. Carved from wood, the statue when viewed seems to be animated. The Virgin holds an infant Christ in her left hand while in her right she holds a scepter. Two angels grace the pedestal of the statue and the scroll work is magnificent. After leaving this church and strolling the ever busy square, a visit to the market is always interesting. The market has functioned for centuries and during certain days, the market comes to life. All types of items are sold from the town and surrounding villages. Fresh vegetables, fruits, meat, clothing, farm equipment, and even livestock are sold here depending upon the season. This marketplace is truly the "soul" of Stará Ľubovňa. Many types of people come to buy, sell or just observe the process. This market is a common meeting place for residents from the outlying villages and is considered a type of social activity by many. The market generally opens very early in the morning and by mid-afternoon, it is already winding down for the day. Exploration of the various shops in the square area is never disappointing. Many items can be found along with excellent crystal products. The clothing stores are always full and offer many western imports and modern styles. Many of these stores can be located through the various "tunnels" which connect the medieval buildings in the square. You have to explore each one as few signs are posted on the buildings but this is great fun to do.
Walking back through the square, many buildings can be seen which are visually pleasing and historical treasures. An item of interest is the fountain near St. Nicholas tower. This fountain has a unique stone sculpture located in the middle of the circle and is graceful. One of the most important buildings is house number 12, the former residence of the governor of the towns of the Spis region. It was built in Renaissance style and dates from the year 1639. Recent modifications and remodeling have been executed to restore this building to its original beauty. Other houses to be seen are house number 1, built in the later half of the 18th century and not to be missed is the small statue of the Virgin in a small indentation between the second and third windows. House number 21 offers a painting of the Holy Trinity and was built in the 18th century. House number 23 is fascinating due to its architecture and wood work. Built in 1813, this date is carved into the building along with an emblem, two lions and a pelican. There are many fine restaurants in Stará Ľubovňa which can be found on foot, or via car. An excellent one is the wooden "Salas Polana." Located on the outer regions of the town, this fine restaurant offers outstanding Slovak cuisine. The wines offered at this restaurant are of the finest quality and their menu is so diverse a choice becomes difficult. There are private rooms for dining and the author has enjoyed the pleasure of experiencing this. The interior is that of a rustic lodge and very appealing. The service is excellent and always courteous. Another good restaurant is located in the "Druzba" This restaurant, while not modernized as the Salas Polana, offers excellent Slovak food in a very low key atmosphere. The food is excellent and the staff very willing to accommodate any request. Again, there is a public section to dine and also a room for private dinners which is very cozy. These restaurants do tend to close early if customers are limited so it is best to get there during the late afternoon. Hotels are being renovated and expanded due to the increasing numbers of tourists. Two at present are Hotel Vrchovina Tatry and the Hotel Lubovna. To see history, a visit to the Lubovna Castle is necessary. This castle today is a museum and has overlooked the town for centuries. Below the castle is a stunning open air museum of folk architecture which includes wooden homes from various villages. Also included is an original wooden church which was offered to the museum by the village of Matysova. The wooden homes and churches are open for review and are decorated according to their respective time periods. The church interior is small, yet captivating. The icons which grace the iconstanis are original paintings. A climb to the choir loft offers an excellent view of the wooden architecture of this church.
Castle tours are given during the summer but the author was honored to experience a special tour when the castle was closed for the season. The interior is magnificent and walking along the winding walkways and tunnels are intriguing. When leaving the interior parts of this castle, make sure to sign the guest book. Names in this book represent many countries in Europe and America. The view from the castle is stunning and not to be overlooked. Walking though a former courtyard to the east wall is the chapel of St. Michael. This small, yet eloquent chapel served the ruling family of the castle for centuries and was constructed in 1647. The black, gold and white colors used in the construction of the main altar, and two side altars are works of art. The oil painting on the main altar of Saint Michael is beautiful. This chapel has been restored to its original setting and the history of the castle can be felt in this small room. After leaving the castle and near Stará Ľubovňa on the way to the Mnisek nad Popradom boundary is the small village of Hranicne. A small wooden church dedicated to the Holy Virgin is seen and was constructed in 1785. The interesting fact about this church is that it originated as a common church for both Roman Catholics and Greek Catholics. The church was restored in the 19th century and the tower is the original construction. Paintings and ornamentation in this church date from the 14th to the 18th century. Many paintings were brought to this church from Stará Ľubovňa to adorn it. The different styles (Eastern and Western) offer an interesting mix of cultures and religious beliefs.
Stará Ľubovňa offers much for those who enjoy the outdoors. The Tatra National Park and the Pieniny National Park are not far. Many health spas can be found on the outside boundaries of Stará Ľubovňa and many have been operating for centuries. It is still common for people from Stará Ľubovňa and the surrounding villages to visit these spas. Some have mineral springs and pools outdoors. A few are being remodeled to attract tourists when they visit Slovakia in the summer months. The most famous of these are the Lubovnianske and Vysne Ruzbachy Spas. Many new apartment complexes are being built on the outskirts of the town and this area is expanding. In one of the complexes a new Greek Catholic church was built to minister to those who live in this area. The church is unique as it is completely round and capped with a gold three bar cross. The simple interior is very welcoming but as of the author’s visit the inconstanis was not installed. Stará Ľubovňa is a town of countless beauty, and rich history. The town is surrounded by lush green vegetation in summer and bountiful fields. The town can be viewed in its entirety by taking the main highway up the mountain. From this vantage point, one can see not only Stará Ľubovňa but all the villages in this area. On a clear day, the view is magnificent. Many younger people from the village areas are moving here and the population is expanding very rapidly. There is so much to experience in Stará Ľubovňa that this town truly is the pride of the Northern Spis region.
Editors Note:
The Roman Catholic parish registers of baptisms, marriages and deaths (1692-1927) for Stará L'ubovna, Slovakia, formerly known as Ólubló, Szepes, Hungary are available via the LDS (Family History Center). The film numbers are 1739887, 1739888, 1739889, and 1739890.
Metrical books (births, marriages, deaths 1835-1938) for the Jewish congregation at Stará L'ubovna are also available via the LDS. The film number is 1739890.
A Castle for the Price of a Soul
By Michaela Melounová
and Zuzana Habšudová
Spectator staff
photo: Anton Frič |
"I WANT to build a castle up on that hill, and live there until my very last breath," the old lord, named Ľubovenský, told his sons, when he saw the hill rising above the town now known as Stará Ľubovňa.
His sons immediately started building the castle. By the evening, the basement was laid. However, when they woke up next morning, their work was destroyed. So, they started the work all over again. Next morning was the same. The old lord found out that a sorceress who lived in a nearby cave was causing the trouble. He went to ask her to let him finish the castle, so that he could live there. She agreed under the condition that he sold his soul to her. He did it on the spot.
The following morning, the castle stood on the hill. Ľubovenský and his sons moved in. However, after a while the old lord started to feel remorse for promising to sell his soul. He decided to go to a nearby monastery to ask for forgiveness. It was granted, and he stayed there. When the sorceress found out, she wanted to take revenge by destroying the castle. But as soon as she was about to throw a massive rock on it, the monastery's bells chimed and she lost her power.
According to historians this castle dominating the north of the Spiš region was built in the 13th century. The fortress was built as a part of the defensive system protecting the northern border of the Austro-Hungarian empire with Poland. Most probably, the castle was built by Earl Boleslav, son-in-law of the Hungarian King Béla IV.
At the beginning of the 14th century, the castle became the property of Matúš Čák Trenčiansky (Maté Csák), the most influential aristocrat of the Habsburg empire, also called the Lord of the Váh river and the Tatras mountains. He ruled over the majority of what is modern Slovakia's territory, but died without a heir.
In the spring of 1412, the King Sigismond of Luxembourg pledged the castle together with 16 Spiš towns to the Polish King Vladislav Jagiell II for 37,000 Prague groschen, which he needed to finance his campaigns. For the next 360 years, the castle remained the property of Polish custodians. The Polish nobility even housed its crown jewels there for some years.
During those times, Ľubovňa Castle was rebuilt into a large Renaissance fortress. In 1772, the castle returned to the ownership of Habsburg rulers. But its significance began to decline. Its last owner was the Zámoyski family, which kept it until 1945, when it was nationalised by the communists.
Since 1960, reconstruction and archeological research have been taking place at the castle. In 1966, it became part of the Ľubovňa Museum. It has expositions featuring the castle's history, customs and period furniture.
One day around the castle
Morning
photo: Anton Frič |
Climb the path up to Ľubovňa Castle (see the instructions under the top picture). On August 3, a group of fencers will perform their show as part of the regular guided tours at the castle. The shows will be performed between 10:00 and 18:00, each time a group of visitors comes to the castle. Admission for this day will be higher than for the regular guided tour at the castle - Sk100.
Afternoon
From the castle descend to the open-air museum situated right under the fortress. The open-air museum grounds feature the traditional dwellings and typical architectureof the region, such as the wooden Greek-Orthodox Catholic Church of St Michael, a characteristic house of the village magistrate, and a school furnished in the style of the beginning of the 20th century.
Within the museum's area, visit the newly open restaurant U Grófky Isabelly (At the Countess Isabelle), named after the wife of the castle's last owner Ján Zamoyski. The restaurant, furnished in the romantic style, is located in a reconstructed forester's lodge. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Tel: 0905/580-599.
Evening
Finish the day at a thermal swimming pool in the Tatra spa town of Vyšné Ružbachy (12 kilometres west of Stará Ľubovňa).
Open Tue-Sun 9:00-18:00. Admission: Sk20-40. Vyšné Ružbachy 48, Vyšné Ružbachy. Tel: 052/4266-111.
Other activities in the region
Cultural events and attractions
Folklórne slávnosti pod Kráľovou Hoľou (Folk Celebration under Kráľova Hoľa )
Folk groups from three regions - Liptov, Spiš and Horehronie - gather under the hill of Kráľova Hoľa to perform music and dances typical for the individual locations. On Saturday, August 2, groups will perform in the streets of the village of Liptovská Teplička. On Sunday, the groups will meet at the village's main square at 13:00 and form a lively parade that will move to the local amphitheatre, where the festival programme starts at 14:00.
Running August 2 and 3. Liptovská Tepli
čka (around 20 kilometres southwest of Poprad). Tel: 052/7798-110.Herbáre
ň mnícha Cypriána (The Brother Cyprián Herbarium)
photo: Anton Frič |
A herbarium with more than 270 kinds of plants put together by Brother Cyprián, a monk who was a faith healer and botanist living in the 18th century, can be found in the house of another monk of the same name, Father Cyprián. The house, which served as a pharmacy and today is a museum, is located within the grounds of the Červený Kláštor monastery.
Open daily 9:00-17:00. Admission: Sk20 and Sk40. Múzeum Červený Kláštor (Červený Kláštor Museum), Červený Kláštor (northwest of Stará Ľubovňa). Tel: 052/4822-955.
Hiking trips
Ľubovňa Castle looks out over a region that is rich with national parks. West of the fortress spread the Belianske Tatry mountains, part of the High Tatras National Park, and Pieniny, which is the smallest national park in Slovakia. These are the most frequented paths leading through the parks' publicly accessible areas:
Pieniny - Prielom Dunajca
photo: Anton Frič |
From the town of Červený Kláštor float down the river on a typical wooden raft (plť), originally made of several tree trunks tied together. The 11-kilometre long cruise on the Dunajec riverends in Lesnica. To return back to Červený Kláštor, take the blue route, an approximately 90-minute hike through the woods.
If floating down the river does not appeal, you can follow the red trail from the Červený Kláštor camping area down to Lesnica. The easy trail, with interesting rock formations along some parts, follows the route of the Dunajec river.
The bus from Stará Ľubovňa to Červený Kláštor leaves daily at 10:05. The return bus leaves at 18:14 during the weekend and 20:45 during the week.
Belianske Tatry - Monkova dolina, Kopské sedlo
photo: Anton Frič |
Take the green trail from the Tatra Hotel in the village of Ždiar (20 kilometres from Kežmarok) leading through the Monkova dolina valleyup to the Kopské sedlo (saddleback), which is 1,750 metres above sea level. Change for the blue trail there, and continue through the valley of Kežmarská Biela Voda, descending to the village of Tatranské Matliare. The hike is of moderate difficultly, around seven and a half hours.
The bus from Kežmarok to Ždiar leaves daily at 8:05. The bus from Tatranské Matliare to Tatranská Lomnica leaves daily at 18:07 and 19:58, and the bus from Tatranská Lomnica to Kežmarok leaves at 18:35 and 20:40.
Note: For the exact trails of the hikes see maps Spišská Magura - Pieniny No 103, and Vysoké Tatry No 113 published by Vojenský kartografický ústav, Harmanec. The maps are available in bookstores and information centres across Slovakia. Stará Ľubovňa information centre, Námestie sv. Mikuláša 12. Tel: 052/4321-713. Kežmarok information centre, Starý trh 46. Tel: 052/4522-165.
Accommodation
Penzión Max, Starý trh 9, Kežmarok. Tel: 052/4526-324.
Penzión Gurmen, Námestie sv. Mikuláša, Stará Ľubovňa. Tel: 052/ 4281-811.
Hotel Satel, Mnoheľova 825, Poprad. Tel: 052/7161-111.
[7/21/2003]
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